How Tools and Frameworks Can Help Chefs Embrace Sustainability

ELLEN GONZALEZ IS A PHD GRADUATE AND CHEF WITH A BACKGROUND IN BOTH HOSPITALITY AND DESIGN. HAVING JUST COMPLETED HER PHD, WHICH EXPLORED THE CONCEPT OF CIRCULAR FOOD SYSTEMS THROUGH A SUSTAINABLE FOOD DESIGN LENS, WE ASKED HER TO SHARE WHAT SHE LEARNED DURING THE COURSE OF HER RESEARCH.
WITH INSIGHTS FROM CASE STUDIES IN ITALY AND AT HOME IN BRAZIL, ELLEN EXPLORES THE GAPS BETWEEN THEORY AND PRACTICE WHEN IT COMES TO SUSTAINABLE HOSPITALITY AND WHAT SUPPORTS CHEFS AND OPERATORS NEED TO CREATE POSITIVE CHANGE.
WHAT IS YOUR EDUCATIONAL AND CAREER BACKGROUND?
I have a background in architecture and a Master’s in Design from PUC-Rio, Brazil, where I later joined the doctoral programme in Design. Over the years, I’ve worked as a chef and kitchen leader in both Brazil and abroad, including roles in renowned restaurants and community-led food projects. My career has evolved to include both gastronomy and sustainability, always moving between hands-on kitchen practice and systemic thinking. This dual path has allowed me to explore how food and design intersect to shape more sustainable futures in the foodservice sector.
TELL US ABOUT THE SUBJECT OF YOUR PHD.
My PhD explores the concept of Circular Food Systems through a sustainable, systemic food design lens — a transdisciplinary approach that combines service design, gastronomy and sustainable best practices to improve foodservice everyday routines. Specifically, I investigated how design methods can support restaurants and other HoReCa businesses in transitioning towards sustainable operations. The outcome was both theoretical — defining core concepts — and practical, in the form of Seeds., a prototype toolkit and platform for chefs, cooks and managers to implement and share sustainable practices in their daily operations.
AS PART OF YOUR RESEARCH, YOU FOCUSED ON CASE STUDIES FROM THE RESTAURANT SECTOR IN BRAZIL AND ITALY. WHAT WOULD YOU SAY ARE THE STRENGTHS AND CHALLENGES PARTICULAR TO FOODSERVICE BUSINESSES IN THESE VERY DIFFERENT FOOD AND CULTURAL ENVIRONMENTS?
One key finding across my case studies in both Brazil and Italy is that sustainability in foodservice is deeply shaped by context — especially when it comes to access to infrastructure, support networks, legislation and local supply chains.
“Sustainability in foodservice is deeply shaped by context — especially when it comes to access to infrastructure, support networks, legislation and local supply chains.”
In Brazil, my case studies showed how much creativity and resilience emerge in the absence of formal systems. Many restaurateurs are independently building relationships with local producers, experimenting with closed-loop practices or engaging with their communities in meaningful ways. However, these efforts often unfold without policy backing or consistent public visibility, or aren´t always supported by legislation or public policies, making long-term sustainability costly or harder to maintain.
In Italy, the visited projects benefit from stronger regional food identities and more consolidated access to artisan and local supply chains. There’s often a cultural alignment with sustainability values, such as seasonality and waste reduction. Yet, even with this advantage, I observed challenges in matching economic viability and market demands (it still is a niche).
Overall, while the approaches differ, both contexts reveal that sustainability is being driven by committed individuals and small teams — often without systemic support. Their work shows enormous potential, but also highlights the urgent need for collaborative platforms, shared knowledge and policy-level alignment to truly scale sustainable practices in the sector.
“Sustainability is being driven by committed individuals and small teams — often without systemic support.”
CAN YOU SHARE SOMETHING SURPRISING YOU LEARNED DURING THE COURSE OF COMPLETING YOUR PHD?
One of the most revealing insights was the persistent gap between sustainability theory and practice in the HoReCa sector. While there’s a growing discourse around sustainable gastronomy, many food professionals lack access to the tools, language and/or support they need to actually implement change in their daily operations.
What’s also surprising — and concerning — is how much valuable knowledge remains undocumented. Many cooks and restaurateurs are experimenting with sustainable practices on their own, but these efforts often go unnoticed and unshared. As a result, people end up repeating the same mistakes, instead of building on each other’s learning. This not only wastes time and resources, but also slows down collective progress.
“Many cooks and restaurateurs are experimenting with sustainable practices on their own, but these efforts often go unnoticed and unshared. As a result, people end up repeating the same mistakes, instead of building on each other’s learning. This not only wastes time and resources, but also slows down collective progress.”
While conducting my field research, I noticed a willingness to act more sustainably, but also how little practical guidance and time professionals have to do so. Even small tools — like a sourcing map or a well-designed cost sheet — were often met with enthusiasm. Cooks and managers often feel overwhelmed by daily operations, so they appreciate frameworks that can help them align their work with their values. This reinforced my belief in designing accessible, context-sensitive tools that respect their constraints while opening new paths forward.
The research has evidenced the need for shared platforms and communities of practice that make sustainability visible, practical and collaborative — so that individual initiatives can contribute to broader systemic transformation.
“Managers often feel overwhelmed by daily operations, so they appreciate frameworks that can help them align their work with their values.”
WHAT'S ONE IMMEDIATE ACTION YOU WOULD RECOMMEND THAT RESTAURANTS AND OTHER FOOD BUSINESSES TAKE TO REDUCE THEIR ENVIRONMENTAL IMPACT?
I'd say consciousness. When you start measuring out your challenge, it becomes more tangible. Tackle one or two things at a time, so you can see your progress and, from that, feel encouraged to do more.
Say you start with food waste, maybe first in the prep area (preparations, portion control), then move further to customers [and plate waste]. It’s visible, measurable and impactful. Implementing even a basic tracking system — manually or digitally — can help you identify patterns and reduce costs. This also opens the door to broader reflections on sourcing, menu design and staff training. One seemingly simple step already sets you on the path to bigger change.
LAST MONTH, WE FOCUSED ON THE ROLE OF RESTAURANTS AS IMPORTANT SOCIAL SPACES WITHIN THEIR COMMUNITIES. IN WHAT WAYS IS THIS MANIFESTED IN BRAZILIAN CULTURE?
In Brazil, especially within the small, independent sector, restaurants can play the role of extended community spaces. They're not just places to eat, but places where culture, care and connection is displayed. These establishments become hubs where people gather, stories are shared and identities are affirmed through food.
Internally, restaurant teams often function like families, and this company culture can be a powerful catalyst for change. It can inspire individuals to reflect on their relationship with food, increase awareness about sustainability and even shift their personal eating habits. Some establishments also invest in team development through in-house training or partnerships with educational programmes, fostering upward mobility and professional growth — especially important in a sector that often relies on informal labour.
“Internally, restaurant teams often function like families, and this company culture can be a powerful catalyst for change.”
In terms of social impact, hiring policies can be a first point of action — offering opportunities to those historically excluded from the formal economy. Externally, restaurants can support local farmers and artisans not only through responsible procurement, but also by amplifying their visibility: naming them on menus, sharing their stories on social media and celebrating the ingredients they provide. This form of storytelling not only strengthens food biodiversity but also preserves cultural memory around ingredients and culinary practices.
Restaurants also have the potential to influence consumer behaviour. When core values are clearly communicated — whether through menu language, service rituals or staff knowledge — they can trigger greater curiosity and foster more conscious consumption habits among customers.
Lastly, many restaurants step into their broader social role by addressing food insecurity, which remains a significant issue in all major Brazilian cities. During the pandemic, for instance, the rise of community kitchens demonstrated how the restaurant sector could mobilise solidarity networks to feed thousands. While many of these initiatives have since been dismantled, they revealed the latent capacity of restaurants to act as social infrastructure in times of crisis.
CAN YOU GIVE US SOME EXAMPLES OF BRAZILIAN RESTAURANTS WHO ARE DOING A GREAT JOB OF SUPPORTING THEIR COMMUNITIES, AND/OR IN OTHER SUSTAINABILITY INITIATIVES?
The Slow Bakery in Rio de Janeiro, for example, goes beyond baking bread — it fosters long-term relationships with small-scale farmers, pays fair prices for local wheat and actively communicates food system issues to its customers. Their work blends craftsmanship, education and activism.
In Curitiba, Manu not only champions Brazilian biodiversity through its menu, but also participates in cultural and educational initiatives, often using food to tell complex stories about local identity and ecosystems, besides keeping an urban garden to supply both the restaurant (and its team) and the community.
Lano-Alto in São Luiz do Paraitinga (São Paulo) is a standout. It’s more than just a dairy farm, fruit preserve producer and inn — it exemplifies a deep commitment to community. The team actively works to empower local residents, not only by learning and sharing experiences from within the region but also by celebrating local culture through seasonal festivals and food-focused events. These gatherings serve to uplift traditional knowledge, honour regional biodiversity and reconnect people with their food heritage.
Enoteca Saint VinSaint in São Paulo takes a comprehensive and transparent approach to sustainability in the heart of a major metropolis. With a strong emphasis on low-waste practices, regenerative agriculture and natural wines, Enoteca actively supports small-scale producers and artisans. They go beyond procurement to create narratives, making visible the people and processes behind the ingredients. The restaurant also engages with the public through a wine fair and dinners that bring sustainability conversations to the table, both literally and figuratively.
Hotel Arpoador in Rio de Janeiro is another inspiring example, with its restaurant under the leadership of chefs who care deeply about local produce and responsible sourcing. The hotel has been recognised with sustainability awards and continues to implement environmental strategies across its food and hospitality services — from composting and natural resources management to staff training and social partnerships.
As mentioned, these initiatives reveal how change is promoted by deep personal commitments, informal networks and a spirit of experimentation. While not always framed as ‘best practice’, these examples embody a living, place-responsive approach to sustainability that deserves more visibility and support.
ANY OTHER INTERESTING DETAILS YOU’D LIKE TO SHARE?
Yes — one important point is that sustainability cannot be seen as ‘luxury’. Over the years, gastronomy has overlooked traditions and resourcefulness that have always existed in kitchens, and the aesthetics of abundance may have led the way to overconsumption and waste. My research aims to highlight these overlooked forms of knowledge and bring them into the conversation, making sustainability more inclusive and locally grounded. By co-designing the Seeds. toolkit with experts of the HoReCa industry, I also hope to support a shift from abstract goals to actionable change, led by the people who are actually feeding us every day.
Interested in support on your sustainability journey? Read about the Food Made Good Standard here or drop us a line at hello@thesra.org with any questions.
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