More Plants, Better Meat: Knepp Wilding Kitchen

THE KNEPP ESTATE IS A 3,500-ACRE REWILDING PROJECT THAT PROVES HOW EASILY NATURE CAN BOUNCE BACK ONCE IT HAS THE SPACE TO DO SO. WHILE THE GOAL IS TO PRODUCE NATURE, RATHER THAN FOOD, THE WILD MEAT REARED ON THE ESTATE IS A HAPPY BY-PRODUCT. THE ON-SITE RESTAURANT, KNEPP WILDING KITCHEN, SERVES THIS MEAT ALONGSIDE ORGANIC PRODUCE GROWN IN THE ON-SITE REGENERATIVE MARKET GARDEN AND SUSTAINABLE FISH CAUGHT BY DAY-BOAT ON THE SUSSEX COAST, CELEBRATING THE BEST OF SEASONAL BRITISH INGREDIENTS.
WE SPOKE TO NED BURRELL, CO-OWNER OF THE KNEPP ESTATE, ABOUT WHAT ‘MORE PLANTS, BETTER MEAT’ LOOKS LIKE AT KNEPP WILDING KITCHEN.
“We want to have a meaningful, positive impact on the planet, says Ned Burrell, Co-Owner of the Knepp Estate and Founder of Knepp Wilding Kitchen. “Choosing where and how food is sourced, and who you support, plays a crucial role in addressing climate change, biodiversity loss and carbon emissions. Our food choices are among the most powerful ways individuals and businesses can contribute to ecological restoration and sustainability.”
“Choosing where and how food is sourced, and who you support, plays a crucial role in addressing climate change, biodiversity loss and carbon emissions. Our food choices are among the most powerful ways individuals and businesses can contribute to ecological restoration and sustainability.”
More plants
At Knepp, the kitchen team prioritises seasonal, local and diverse varieties of plants, from heritage grains and pulses to a wide range of vegetables. “Our team of skilled growers follows regenerative principles, with a holistic view of farming that enhances soil health and biodiversity,” says Ned. “Almost all of our vegetables are grown on-site during the summer months. In winter, we turn to a variety of legumes and dried beans, carefully sourcing only organic options to maintain our standards.”
“We advocate for eating better meat, and less of it,” says Ned. “This is reflected on our menu: currently, 68% of our dishes are vegetarian. We also invest significant time into educating guests about our growing practices, both through our menu and wider communications. By making plant-based dishes irresistible and deeply satisfying, we naturally encourage guests to choose them.”
“By making plant-based dishes irresistible and deeply satisfying, we naturally encourage guests to choose them.”
Less, but better meat
Ned is quick to emphasise that Knepp is not anti-meat — in fact, animals are central to the estate’s ecosystem, as integrated grazing is an important part of keeping the land healthy and abundant. Herds of old English longhorn cattle, Tamworth pigs, Exmoor ponies and red and fallow deer wander the landscape, and their activities — grazing, rootling, rubbing and trampling — provide a necessary check on the vegetation. This contributes to a dynamic variety of healthy habitats, preventing the scrub from becoming closed-canopy woodland and transferring nutrients and seeds across the landscape.
Ned explains what ‘better’ meat looks like at Knepp. “To us, ‘better’ meat means regeneratively raised, slow-grown, organic, grass-fed, wild or rewilded — and treated with respect at every stage, from pasture to abattoir,” he says. “We have strict sourcing principles: if we don’t fully trust a supplier or their practices, the meat doesn’t make it onto our menu. These values are non-negotiable.”
“We have strict sourcing principles: if we don’t fully trust a supplier or their practices, the meat doesn’t make it onto our menu. These values are non-negotiable.”
Carcass balance plays an important role in this ‘less, but better’ strategy. “Since we produce our own beef and venison, our in-house butchery team works closely with us to make full use of each animal,” he explains. “We design popular menu items around non-primal cuts, helping us to reduce waste and honour the animal in its entirety.”
Knepp is adept at communicating this ethos to their customers and their team, using a multi-media approach that includes guided tours; website and social media updates; menu descriptions that list producers and specific varieties; staff training, including tours and estate briefings; and putting educational booklets on every table.
The benefits and challenges of responsible operations
Ned tells us that championing more plants and better meat has benefited the Knepp business in a number of ways. The first of these is its economic impact. “Our market garden helps us connect customers with where their food comes from. This transparency adds value; people are more appreciative and willing to pay a premium,” he says. “That said, our produce is significantly more expensive, so our margins are tighter. In the short term, our approach may limit profitability, but we believe it will pay off long term as demand for responsibly sourced food continues to grow.” Their ethos also helps to attract and retain passionate staff who care about sustainability. “This shared mission is now core to our team culture and is invaluable to the business,” says Ned.
Finally, by focusing on measurable data, they can tell that they’re having a positive impact on the environment. “Knepp is a science-led estate,” he explains. “We conduct biodiversity and carbon studies across the site, including the restaurant and market garden. These show we’re making a measurable positive difference — and it all starts with producing food in harmony with nature.”
Of course, maintaining such a strong focus on doing business in responsible ways also comes with its own challenges. “Rising food prices and the 20% VAT on hospitality are major burdens, and government support is needed to ease this strain,” says Ned. He also calls for greater accountability across the sector. “Some competitors make sustainability claims without backing them up. We need stronger regulations — organisations like The SRA are a step in the right direction, but participation should be mandatory for those claiming sustainability credentials.” Finally, he points to a need for transparency in supply chains. “Especially in areas like fishing, we need more independent, detailed research to make informed sourcing decisions. That level of clarity just isn’t available yet.”
Food Made Good at Knepp Wilding Kitchen
Knepp Wilding Kitchen completed their first Food Made Good Standard in 2025, earning three stars for their evident and tangible approach to sustainability. “We see a real need for transparency and accountability in the food industry: the Food Made Good Standard offers exactly that,” says Ned. “It also acts as a toolkit to help embed sustainability throughout our operations. We were surprised by how holistic and detailed the process was. It made us realise the importance of documenting and sharing our ethos internally, and highlighted areas for growth — especially around staff culture. It's already started making a positive impact.”
“We see a real need for transparency and accountability in the food industry: the Food Made Good Standard offers exactly that. It also acts as a toolkit to help embed sustainability throughout our operations. We were surprised by how holistic and detailed the process was. It made us realise the importance of documenting and sharing our ethos internally, and highlighted areas for growth — especially around staff culture. It's already started making a positive impact.”
Ned and the team at Knepp are currently busy planning a series of food events. “These will highlight specific growing and production techniques, in collaboration with experts and other like-minded organisations,” Ned wraps up. “If you're aligned with The SRA’s principles and want to collaborate — we’d love to hear from you.”
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