Source Seafood Sustainably: FYN Restaurant

“At FYN, sustainability is a natural part of who we are and have always been,” says Group CEO Paul Bruce-Brand. The team at FYN takes a broader, more holistic approach to what sustainability means for hospitality; mirroring the Food Made Good Framework, the restaurant incorporates sustainable sourcing, environmental impact and social responsibility into their daily operations. “Every element of FYN — from the ingredients on the plate to the wood of our chairs, the wines in our cellar and the way we treat our team — reflects our belief that fine dining can and should support the ecosystems and people around it,” he says. “We are a restaurant built through collaborations with local fisherfolk, farmers, designers, winemakers, craftspeople and our community, who all contribute to a shared story. We’ve never seen ourselves as an island; if we can help, we get involved.” 

Sourcing seafood sustainably  

Menus at FYN incorporate a variety of seafood, from local species like kingklip and abalone to sea vegetables, and the team ensures that each of these ingredients is sourced as sustainably as possible. “The menu is built on the principle that seafood should be both ethically sourced and chosen based on what is most environmentally responsible,” says Paul.  

Part of this strategy is deliberately avoiding destructive, exploitative fishing methods. “Large-scale, industrial fishing puts enormous strain on ecosystems — depleting stocks, decimating the seabed, catching indiscriminately, causing wastage due to trawling and disrupting biodiversity,” he continues. “That’s why FYN supports small-scale, low-impact methods such as line-caught fishing, as well as carefully managed aquaculture for species like abalone, where farming provides a sustainable alternative to overfished wild populations. Working with small-scale fisherfolk and aquaculture partners ensures that we’re protecting biodiversity, supporting local communities and keeping our oceans healthy for the future.”

Choosing the right species

It’s also critical to avoid overfished and endangered species, and the sourcing strategy at FYN focuses instead on lesser known varieties, introducing their customers to new ingredients and flavours. “We prioritise green-listed species line-caught by local fisherfolk, and aquaculture where possible,” says Paul. “We strictly avoid eel and any overfished species. We don’t dictate what fish should appear on the menu: nature and our fishers do. What is caught guides our creativity and inspires dishes that highlight local, responsibly caught fish instead of overfished or imported varieties.”

Origins of flavour 

As part of the culinary team’s continued fascination with indigenous heritage ingredients, one of their most exciting projects has been working with palaeoscientist Dr Jan de Vynck on the ‘origins of flavour’ — an exploration of the plants and proteins eaten by early humans, which are thought to have led to both greater cognitive abilities and the evolution of food culture.  

“Chef Peter Tempelhoff, Chef Ashley Moss and the team have long been fascinated by the foods our ancestors once ate,” Paul shares. “A fossilised composite found along our coast provides the earliest known example of Homo sapiens combining ingredients for flavour, rather than caloric density. This points to diet as a key factor in our cognitive development. We’re passionate about telling this story and reconnecting people with these origins of flavour, and we do so by celebrating these ancient ingredients indigenous to South Africa across our menu — foods that have sustained our ancestors for centuries.” 

This includes marine ingredients, offering FYN’s customers exciting options that are both ancient and new. “Working closely with Dr Jan de Vynck has allowed us to rediscover and work with forgotten seaweeds, lesser-known fish species and indigenous plant species that once sustained coastal communities,” Paul says. 

Front-of-house teams are carefully trained on the origins and sustainability of every ingredient, and share these stories with guests at the table. “We also use visual storytelling in the restaurant — such as artwork and light projections celebrating the ocean — in addition to table displays, which subtly help tell this story through certain dishes,” Paul says. 

What’s next for FYN? 

Looking ahead, FYN is excited about working with UNESCO and Relais & Châteaux in highlighting the protection of the Kogelberg Biosphere, South Africa’s oldest biosphere and the heart of the Cape Floral Kingdom. Kogelberg Biosphere has the richest, most complex biodiversity on earth and is home to more than 1,880 plant species, 77 of which are unique to this region. The variety of marine life is even more astounding, with over 3,500 marine species that are found only here. As Paul notes, FYN’s dedication to working closely with the fisherfolk of the area will be crucial in supporting this work. 

The team is also eagerly continuing their exploration of lesser-known sea and plant species with the assistance of Dr Jan de Vynck. One of FYN’s most meaningful initiatives in this area has been the recent planting of the Indigenous Edible Garden at Buitenverwachting Wine Farm, home to sister restaurant Beyond. “The garden now supplies all our restaurants with indigenous plants that are less water-intensive, help to restore ancient plant species and reduce the need for foraging in the wild, leaving natural ecosystems untouched,” Paul explains. 

You can find out more about FYN on their website, or read why they won the Sustainable Restaurant Award at The World’s 50 Best Restaurants 2023 here. 

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