How Can We Drive Better Gender Equality in Professional Kitchens?

Earlier this year, led by London-based chefs Sally Abé and Dara Klein, 70 female chefs and hospitality workers signed an open letter calling for an end to sexism and inequality in the industry. This was sparked by an interview with Jason Atherton in The Times, in which he appeared to deny that sexism in kitchens even exists. “This, on top of last week’s pitiful representation of women at the UK’s Michelin awards, means that we can no longer sit in silence,” read the letter; February’s Michelin Guide ceremony was criticised for awarding a star to just one woman, failing to recognise female talent across the industry. 

The letter emphasised, “Sexism has been and remains a pervasive issue in our industry, shaping the culture of our kitchens in ways that diminish the potential and contributions of countless talented women. From inappropriate comments and behaviours to unequal opportunities for advancement, these experiences hinder not only individual careers, but the growth and innovation of our industry as a whole.” As well as signing the letter, many women shared their personal experiences of sexism and harassment at work.

In many cultures, cooking is still viewed through a largely gendered lens. Within the machinations of the patriarchy, women’s culinary contributions have long been recognised only within the domestic sphere; a woman’s ‘place in the kitchen’ has specifically referred to the kitchen in her home, where her labour is undervalued and — crucially — unpaid. In restaurant kitchens, however, where the act of cooking has both prestige and a monetary value attached to it, men have long dominated the profession. This means that women's cooking is routinely undervalued, while men's cooking — especially in professional settings — is recognised and celebrated. 

As more women have ventured into the culinary arts, many have been met with a hostile environment. For many years, the culture in many kitchens has been almost cartoonishly macho, and big egos and aggressive management styles have been rewarded. Reprehensible behaviours like misogynism, bullying and sexual harassment have combined with economic barriers to make it difficult for women to succeed in the sector; for example, there is still a gender pay gap at play (as there is across most industries) and men remain more likely to be seen, valued, rewarded and promoted for their work. Specific pay gaps vary per country but, for example, in the US in 2023, women chefs and head cooks who worked full-time made 81 cents for every dollar men earned in the same positions, equating to a $164 difference in every weekly pay cheque. 

challenges AND BARRIERS

Divesting from age-old cultural norms isn’t easy. Chef Pichaya “Pam” Soontornyanakij, who runs The X Project in Thailand and has opened a number of highly successful restaurants, tells us that one of the biggest challenges of her career has been building a culture that balances high expectations with taking real care of her team. This required her to abandon toxic tropes in favour of a new, modern management style. “As chefs, we’re trained to be precise, fast and demanding. But when I stepped into a leadership role — especially running multiple restaurants — I realised that technical skills alone aren’t enough. People don’t thrive just because they’re pushed — they thrive when they feel safe, seen and supported, even under pressure.” 

Finding that balance took time. “I had to unlearn some of the rigid behaviours passed down in professional kitchens and shape a new kind of discipline — one that still holds the line on quality, but with intention and emotional awareness. That shift didn’t happen overnight. But once the tone changed, everything else followed: retention, performance, creativity. The energy of the kitchen became healthier, stronger and more sustainable. That’s been one of my biggest lessons as a chef — not just how to cook better, but how to lead better.” 

For Debora Fadul, Head Chef and Owner at Diacá restaurant in Guatemala, it’s her own internal monologue that posed the most significant challenge. “The biggest barrier I’ve faced has been confronting my own mind. It hasn’t been inside the kitchen, but outside of it — placing limitations on myself that exist only in my head,” she says. “Barriers will always exist in some way, but it’s up to you to be willing — and ready — to break the rules and to believe in yourself. Because when no one else does, you’re the one who has to get up every single day.” 

There are structural barriers at play, too; hospitality typically operates in hours largely unsuitable for family life. With childcare and domestic duties also an area rife with gender inequality, this disproportionately affects women. Similarly, the industry is not particularly forthcoming with benefits like maternity pay that would make an enormous difference for women who wish to be both chefs and mothers. 

Adriana Cavita is the Chef-Owner at Cavita restaurant in London. She tells us that — aside from the struggles inherent in being a Mexican woman in a field dominated by white men —her biggest challenge has been finding a good balance between work and her family life. “The most difficult barrier has always been family: how to keep the balance, having to separate from my family and not being there for so many birthdays, Christmases and New Year Eves — but also postponing starting my own family. I’ve felt the social pressure many times and there have definitely been judgments. This is also due to capitalism: this life is just not built for community.” 

Of course, things are vastly better than they used to be, but gender imbalance remains an ongoing problem across the sector, and — like most societal issues — is one harshly compounded for women of colour, Indigenous women, LGBTQIA+ women and neurodiverse women. With the recent, Trump-led revolt against the very notion of DEI, we need to redouble our efforts to ensure that this industry continues to move forwards, not backwards. 

“I believe the key lies in celebrating our differences — accepting them and learning to understand that they can be each person’s superpower,” says Debora. “Kitchens need diversity; there is no growth without evolution and adaptation as a community. That goes hand in hand with honouring each person’s role, with their strengths and weaknesses, to support one another and function like a living organism.” 

Pam says, “There should be more space for different types of leadership — for people who don’t fit the old mould, but who bring creativity, discipline and care in equal measure. I believe the future of kitchens lies in that diversity — not just of gender, but of mindset and style. Ownership matters. When more diverse voices are given the chance to create and lead their own spaces, the entire system starts to shift.” 

To be successful in building a diverse kitchen, it’s important to understand diverse needs. A truly modern workplace needs to offer flexible work arrangements that accommodate a wide range of needs, allowing talent of all genders not only to stay, but to thrive. This could include shorter shifts, flexible schedules or a four-day work week. Simple actions like offering morning shifts to working parents can make a huge difference.  

This can have a real impact on recruitment, retention, job satisfaction and even creativity in your business. Take, for example, Alice Waters’ revolutionary decision to have two people in every key role at Chez Panisse, back in the early ‘80s. “When my daughter was born, I needed to be there for her,” she says in Netflix documentary Chef’s Table: Legends. “I couldn’t cook in the restaurant six days a week. So, I dreamed up this crazy idea: what if there were two chefs in every key position?” She divided each of the head chef roles in Chez Panisse between two people, paying each of them a full-time salary. “Everyone thought that that was extravagant and that I was extremely naïve, but it did work. It really did. After that decision, I never had chefs leaving. The cooks felt great when they came in, they were not exhausted; they came in with new ideas. It was the most important decision I ever made for Chez Panisse.” 

“We need to evolve beyond the traditional power structures and narrow definitions of what a “real chef” looks like,” says Pam. “Leadership doesn’t have to be aggressive to be effective. Kitchens can still be rigorous and high-performing while being emotionally aware and respectful.” 

Make an explicit decision that your business will have a zero tolerance policy for aggressive, misogynistic language and behaviour, including sexual harassment. Formalise this in writing — in your staff handbook and in contracts — and include it in your induction materials and training. It needs to be made crystal clear to everyone in your business (and even through your supply chain) that the culture in your restaurant is one of tolerance and respect. 

Adriana believes this can — and should — be brought beyond the kitchen. “The more I think about it, everything is about how we have been educated and raised. Women play a big role in creating change, not just in kitchens, but for the world in general. We are the ones educating our kids in the first years of their life; if we teach kids to respect everyone and everything around them, the world will be a different place. In Mexican tradition, before the Spanish arrived, kids were educated in a very different way: it was very important to make them conscious of their acts and behaviour. Maybe this is a question that we all need to answer for ourselves: think about how you were raised and what you can improve to be more inclusive in making decisions and building teams.” 

She points to respectful communication as a crucial component of this kitchen culture. “It’s important to speak up. As women, we need to communicate more clearly about our boundaries. I always tell my team to speak to each other with respect; men and women, we all deserve the same respect and a space to be heard. Be able to communicate with respect and work as a team. We are all learning, we’re all humans and we can all can make mistakes. Accepting our mistakes is a really good way to grow — sometimes it’s not easy, but I believe being humble is not weakness, but a way to show people that we can all learn and improve.” 

A message for the next generation 

In wrapping up, we ask our three interviewees what one message they’d share with the next generation of women entering the industry. "Never give up. If you have a dream, do not ever give up until you reach that dream — no matter what,” says Pam. “Beneath every success, there’s so much that no one sees. Under the tip of the iceberg, there’s all the quiet work — years of learning, failure, persistence, discipline. You might not see the light at first, but you keep going anyway. You keep showing up. So my advice is: Don’t rush. Don’t try to be someone else. Let your culture, your voice, your values shape how you cook and how you lead. That’s what makes it real. That’s what makes it last.” 

“We are the ones with the power to make changes in the industry and in our work environments,” adds Adriana. “Let’s be strong enough to try to help and improve the places where we work. Also, be aware that just giving feedback is not enough; we ourselves need to demonstrate how it can be done. Be the example and the solution, not part of the problem.” 

“The kitchen must understand that just as it can heal, it can also harm a territory, a community, a place. We are part of the value chain — not the centre of it,” says Debora. “Sustainability means understanding and recognising that you are part of something bigger than yourself. In the end, it’s intentional cooking that will lead us toward a more connected and conscious society. If we continue to ignore that, we’ll keep serving nutrition without meaning. Cooking goes beyond good flavour — it offers connection, work, opportunity, joy, nostalgia, history, culture and social growth. And, through our kitchens, we are the messengers and channels for all of that.” 

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Lead image courtesy of Debora Fadul, Diacá