A New Vision for Fine Dining: Why Luxury Must Include Sustainability

Traditional fine dining has often meant a focus on foods that are perceived to be extravagant, ‘elevated’ and highly desirable — but what does that actually mean? In practice, prestige ingredients are often regarded as such because of some degree of rarity. Truffles are notoriously difficult to cultivate, for example, so they must be found and foraged, giving them the air of elusive buried treasure; saffron needs to be harvested by hand, rendering its production expensive and labour-intensive.  

Many of these ingredients also come with a heavy price to pay in terms of environmental impact and animal welfare. Caviar might be one of the first foods to mind when you think of luxury dining; driven by the insatiable demand for wild-caught caviar, habitat loss and overfishing have brought sturgeons to the brink of extinction. WWF describes sturgeons as “the most endangered species group on earth”. Similarly, bluefin tuna has been fished into endangered levels due to the popularity of sushi and sashimi — and this has only served to drive prices up even further. The production of foie gras is extremely resource-heavy, as the force-feeding process is labour-intensive and requires large volumes of grain — not to mention that this process is unquestionably horrific from an animal welfare perspective. What’s more, maintaining a global (rather than local) focus when it comes to prized ingredients means that many of these items travel vast distances to reach those high-end plates; where the foods are highly perishable, this often means air-freighting. 

It’s also too often the case that luxury dining takes a toll on its workforce, with employees working to high, near-impossible standards of perfection. In an interview with The New York Times in early 2023, Chef René Redzepi of Noma fame said that the fine dining model is “unsustainable… financially and emotionally, as an employer and a human being, it just doesn’t work.” He continued, “We have to rethink the industry completely. This is simply too hard, and we must work differently.” 

It's clear that putting luxury on the plate often comes at a significant cost to both people and planet. It’s time for a new definition of what fine dining means in the 21st century — and the upcoming generation of chefs is ready to bring a fresh mindset to the high-end kitchen. We asked the regional finalists for the Social Responsibility award at this year’s S.Pellegrino Young Chef’s Academy competition how fine dining can truly embrace sustainability. Here’s what they had to say… 

1. Does fine dining need to rethink what ‘luxury’ means? Do diners really expect rare, imported ingredients, or are we just assuming they do?  

Josefina Zojza from Locale Firenze in Italy agrees that fine dining must rethink the concept of luxury. “Many diners today are more interested in the authenticity and quality of local ingredients than the rarity of imported ones. Luxury should be associated with unique experiences, sustainability and the enhancement of local products.” 

Patrick Ködel of Hallo Emil in Germany chimes in. “Like any guests, fine diners are looking for an experience that stays with them. Sometimes that’s best achieved not through ingredients they already know, but through the unexpected. Honestly, relying on exotic ingredients as a shortcut? That’s just lazy. I live in Stuttgart, where we haven’t even begun to tap into all the regional ingredients that could elevate modern gastronomy. It’s about rediscovery, blending local with innovation. True luxury in dining is more about a clear culinary identity, thoughtful storytelling on the plate, and impeccable service that makes guests feel understood. It’s about offering precision, creativity and a sense of discovery […] Sustainability, authenticity, and atmosphere are the pillars of what makes a meal truly luxurious. Ultimately, it’s how all the details work together to create a memorable experience.” 

“Luxury doesn’t have to mean expensive,” adds Adrien Calmels of Ōkta restaurant in Oregon, USA. “It can be defined by the effort and dedication given to heritage ingredients.” Zante Neethling from Beyond Restaurant in South Africa agrees, saying, “Using local seasonal produce at its freshest is the new luxury. With an abundant variety of fresh produce in South Africa, we are privileged. Bountiful coastlines, sparse resilient vegetation and the ability to forage for indigenous healing plants to broaden your pantry — that is true luxury.” 

Sébastien Rémillard, a team member of Bocuse d'Or Canada and Chefs Canada, believes that the definition of luxury is up to each individual chef and restaurant. “Personally, I would love to see a shift towards a more sustainable approach — one that values not only where ingredients come from, but also how they are used in their entirety. For me, true respect for a product comes from using it thoughtfully and fully, rather than focusing solely on rarity or exclusivity.” 

“Values should come before the product,” says Rafael Bayona Leon, hailing from Central restaurant in Peru. “When values are present, there is a higher level of awareness and understanding that the focus should be on products connected to the land, better cared for and more in tune with nature and ecology.” 

Alberto Suardi of Big Mamma Group in France agrees. “Chefs today have a responsibility to lead positive change in the industry. For me, sustainability is not just about responsible sourcing, but about returning to the roots of cuisine.” 

2. Michelin introduced the Green Star, showing that sustainability is now part of what makes a restaurant excellent. Have you seen attitudes shifting among chefs and diners?  

“I think the Green Star is being taken seriously and is a positive addition to the industry,” says Rafael. “Michelin stars are always important, but I’m glad the Green Star is gaining more value. It shows a growing collective awareness of sustainability, ecology and a closer connection to nature.” 

“Michelin’s introduction of the Green Star has raised the bar for chefs, offering a challenge to think more intentionally about everything that enters the restaurant — from whole ingredients to the mindset of their staff,” adds Adrien. “I believe we will see many more Green Star restaurants and Food Made Good certifications in the future.” 

“I have noticed a significant change in attitude among both chefs and diners,” says Josefina. “Many chefs now consider sustainability a priority and work to reduce the environmental impact of their restaurants. At the same time, customers are increasingly attentive and appreciate the efforts of restaurants in this direction.” Zante agrees that customers are increasingly aware of these issues. “Society is beginning to realise that a massive change is needed to ensure a healthy future for the planet and generations to come.” 

“Unfortunately, I don’t believe it has sparked a significant shift across the industry just yet,” says Sébastien, pointing that the industry has a long road still to travel. “Many chefs who have embraced sustainable practices were already committed to them long before the Green Star existed. Meanwhile, restaurants that have built their identity around sourcing ingredients globally may not feel compelled to change — it’s deeply rooted in their concept and philosophy. I think there’s still a long way to go before sustainability becomes the standard rather than the exception.” 

3. Fine dining chefs are some of the most creative in the world; how can sustainability be a way to push boundaries instead of feeling like a limitation?  

Fortunately, for these young chefs, the general consensus is that sustainability considerations act as creative catalysts, rather than leaving them feeling restrained. “Sustainability can stimulate the creativity of chefs, pushing them to explore new ingredients, techniques and unprecedented combinations,” says Josefina. “Rather than a limitation, sustainability should be seen as a challenge that can lead to surprising and innovative results.” 

“I wholeheartedly believe sustainability fuels creativity rather than limits it,” says Sébastien. “Working with what’s in season and available locally challenges chefs to think differently — to find new techniques, create new flavours and use every part of an ingredient. To me, that’s what cooking is at its core: sourcing what surrounds you and letting it inspire your craft. It takes real skill to create something exceptional from what’s simple and close at hand.” 

Patrick agrees. “It’s not a trend, it’s simply the only smart way forward. Sustainability isn’t about making sacrifices, it’s about making smart, respectful decisions that still allow for creativity and pleasure on the plate. If it feels like a limitation, you’re doing it wrong! All the top chefs I know enjoy a good challenge.” 

“True luxury is no longer about using rare and expensive ingredients, but about telling a story through food, valuing local producers and respecting natural resources,” says Alberto. “Sustainability is not a limitation; it pushes us to be more creative. It encourages us to explore new preservation, fermentation, and transformation techniques — reducing environmental impact while creating innovative and exciting dishes.” 

“If food is ego-driven, sustainability can feel like a limitation,” says Zante. “The ethos of sharing the art of food, whole-food nutrition and the stories that accompany them comes naturally to chefs who are inspired by nature.” 

4. How do you bring diners along on the journey? What’s the best way to get people excited about a more sustainable fine dining experience?  

“To bring diners along on the journey of sustainable fine dining, storytelling is key,” says Adrien. “Engage them with the origins of ingredients, the ethical choices behind sourcing and the innovative techniques that minimise waste. Make sustainability an experience. For me, interest stems from connection. Show diners how their choices contribute to a larger movement. The use of creative plating, unexpected flavours and unique pairings demonstrate that sustainability doesn’t mean compromise. Transparency builds trust, whether it’s showcasing partnerships with local farmers or explaining carbon footprint reductions, giving guests insight makes them feel part of the mission.” 

“Storytelling isn’t about inventing a story, it’s about sharing the real one,” adds Patrick. “Be proud of the relationships you’ve built with local producers and farmers, and invite diners into that connection. When they understand where their food comes from and who’s behind it, it’s not just a meal; it’s a shared connection.” 

Education plays a big role in this storytelling, and Josefina offers some ideas on how to go about this in ways that add interest. “It’s important to explain the importance of sustainability and the added value of a culinary experience that respects the environment. This can be done through detailed descriptions of the dishes, telling the stories behind the ingredients and actively involving the diners. Organising tasting events and workshops can also help create enthusiasm for a sustainable fine dining experience.” “Sharing the origins of ingredients, introducing them to small-scale producers, and showcasing the importance of biodiversity are powerful ways to raise awareness,” adds Alberto. 

5. Are there ingredients, dishes or techniques you think should be retired from fine dining for sustainability’s sake? If so, what are they, and what do you suggest using in their place?  

Alberto says, “Looking ahead, I believe we need to rethink the use of certain ingredients and techniques that have a significant environmental impact. The overuse of out-of-season products or those imported from far away could make room for lesser-known local ingredients that are just as exceptional.” 

“The worst products for the environment and biodiversity are sugar, chocolate, coffee, industrial meat, unsustainable fish, palm oil, soybeans, salmon, rice, over-processed cereals and plastic,” says Zante. “These items should be kept to a minimum or be eliminated completely and replaced with better alternatives. Instead of sugar, use unrefined options like honey, agave or molasses. ChoViva can be used as a chocolate alternative; instead of coffee, serve chicory coffee and local teas. Industrial meat can be replaced with meat from sustainable farming practices. Refined rice and cereals should be substituted with local indigenous grains like millet, sorghum, quinoa, barley and buckwheat. Look for sustainable fish suppliers, like ABALOBI here in South Africa, and avoid salmon. Palm sugar and palm oil products should be eliminated from all kitchens.”  

Zante continues to say that finding sustainable solutions to some culinary techniques and kitchen ‘norms’ is an ongoing, but necessary, process. “Methods like sous vide are not sustainable due to the amount of plastic used. Single use plastic like vacuum-pac bags and cling film should be eliminated from kitchen spaces. Produce should have minimal packaging and plastic bottles should be replaced. Adjust portion sizes to ensure minimal food waste, and ensure daily food preparations are accurate so that everything is used efficiently and effectively.” 

“Some ingredients, like foie gras and certain endangered fish species, should be avoided. In their place, you could use meats from sustainable farms and seafood from certified sources,” says Josefina. “Additionally, dishes that require many processing steps and highly processed ingredients could be replaced with simpler, fresher preparations that enhance seasonality and local provenance.” 

“Ultimately, it’s about choosing ingredients that are both ethical and sustainable, and knowing where they come from. It’s about evolving our approach and finding the best alternatives that still maintain the creativity and integrity of fine dining,” Patrick says. “That’s why organisations like The Sustainable Restaurant Association are crucial — they provide clear frameworks and resources to help both producers and consumers make informed, sustainable choices that benefit the environment and society.” 

How we work with S.Pellegrino Young Chef’s Academy 

The S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy is an inspiring global community, where over 3,000 talented, passionate young chefs connect with influential members of the gastronomic world. Since 2015, the Academy has been celebrating the most talented up and coming young chefs through its Young Chef Academy Competition. In 2019, the competition added the Social Responsibility award to recognise chefs working hard to ensure that their food not only tasted good, but did good too. 

The SRA worked in partnership with S.Pellegrino Young Chef Academy to develop a set of eight criteria, covering a range of social and environmental issues, against which all entrants are scored. We also act as an impartial third-party judge for this award, ensuring independence and credibility while providing sustainability expertise.  

Find out more about our work with S.Pellegrino Young Chef’s Academy here, or visit their website to learn more about the competition. For more insights and stories from across our global network, follow us on Instagram and LinkedIn and sign up to our newsletter! 

Lead image courtesy of Chef Patrick Ködel.